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The tiny hamlet of Traquair is home
to the oldest inhabited house in Scotland with deeds
dating back to the 12th century. Traquair House was a
castle for the Kings of Scotland and its structure
remains basically unchanged from when it was built in
the 17th century.
The loyal, Jacobite Fifth Earl
of Traquair - of the Maxwell Stuart family who are still
in residence - closed the impressive Bear Gates at the
top of the drive when Bonnie Prince Charlie departed
from the castle after the Jacobite uprising was crushed
at Culloden in 1746. He swore then that they would not
be opened again until the Stuarts were restored to the
throne. They have remained closed ever since.
At the farthest out point of
the walk stands a cluster of cairns that resembles three
old men conducting an earnest conversation on a street
corner.
Each cairn stands around 10
feet/3 metres high and marks the summit of a hill that
bears their name - Three Brethren. The carefully
constructed cairns, that dwarf the white Ordnance Survey
triangulation pillar, symbolise the meeting of three old
states: Yair and Philiphaugh districts and the Burgh of
Selkirk. Each year the Selkirk Standard Bearer and his
entourage ride on horseback to the Brethren as they
engage in the common riding tradition, marking out the
traditional boundaries.
The Minchmoor Road is an ancient droving and trading
route dating back at least to medieval times and is now
a recognised Right of Way forming part of a network of
tracks including the Southern Upland Way long-distance
route that continues east to Cockburnspath. Near to the
highest point on this route, above Traquair, the road
passes a spring called the "Cheese Well," haunted by the
fairies. It is said that travellers passing the well
should leave an offering, usually cheese - hence the
name - to the Fairies or "Wee Folk" who are supposed to
haunt the area, to assure themselves of a safe and
successful journey. The Cheese Well may have been a
pagan shrine in the past, whose veneration has since
fallen to superstition. As the Minchmoor Road was
notorious for bandits, travellers probably needed all
the luck they could get!
The Southern Upland Way’s future is under review as the
planners seek to make it less of a "wilderness
experience" and change the route so that it takes in
more places of habitation, where walkers can enjoy a
good meal and a shower during the long expedition. The
theory is that more would use it, as is the case with
the vastly more popular West Highland Way from Glasgow
(Milngavie) to Fort William.
The most physically demanding part of the walk is
encountered at the start - almost immediately after
leaving the car park through a gap in the hedge beside
the Southern Upland Way Information Board and turning
left. The road rises past a fingerpost indicating the
route to the School and Birkinshaw to the right and
continues ahead on the Minchmoor Road. Follow the wide
path as it rises steadily uphill for just over a mile
crossing first one intersection and then up to a second
at Grid Ref: NT347336.
From here, the wide track that continues straight ahead
is surfaced with small, sharp stones and is
uncomfortable to walk on – even in stout boots - so,
unless a visit to the Cheese Well on the south side of
the footpath is preferred, follow the way-marked
Southern Upland Way, just to the right, through a newly
forested area. The way marks bear a thistle carved
within a hexagon and usually have a yellow direction
arrow beneath.
The climb ends at Grid Ref
NT360335, at just below 1,800 feet/549m (the OS 1:50,000
Landranger Sheet 73 shows a spot height of 512m at this
point, but the GPS read 549m) and 1.8 miles/2.9km into
the walk - a gradient of almost 1:8 – where there is a
rest area offering good views of the vast area back
towards Traquair now that a large expanse of the forest
has recently been felled (July 2004). The enthusiastic
‘purist’ can bear right up to the trig point on the
summit of Minch Moor a modest 60 feet/18m higher.
A welcome, if somewhat short
descent amongst tall, shady trees leads to an
intersection of roads where a way-marker on the opposite
side, ahead, indicates the route continuing upwards at
first through a break in the forest, then over Hare Law
and out onto the open moor to reach a fingerpost sign at
Grid Ref NT388326.
Follow the left-hand track from
here to the summit of Brown Knowe that is marked by a
small cairn (more a pile of stones). Negotiate either
the gate or the stile then begin the descent – gentle at
first then becoming slightly steeper to reach the
northwest end of a small stand of trees in a ‘trench’.
Once through another gate, a pleasant grass track leads
uphill and then contours more gently to the north side
of Broomy Law passing a ladder stile across the wall
where a signpost indicates the route to the Broadmeadows
Youth Hostel.
Less than a mile east from here
is the summit of Three Brethren. To reach it, head
towards the conifer plantation and continue along the
track to its right. Enjoy the vista at the summit then
return to the ladder stile, this time crossing it and
descending, quite steeply at times, to reach a walled
enclosure confining a stand of trees where a way-marker
post indicates a right turn.
A couple of raised wooden
walkways over what was formerly a boggy section lead
alongside the wall to a gate into a pleasant birch wood
and terminating at the Broadmeadows Youth Hostel - the
first SYHA hostel, opened in 1931. It is open March to
October.
Click here for more information.
Follow the wide, rough road
past and away from the hostel, downhill, to reach the
busy A708 road at Yarrowford. Just before this, however,
be sure to look over into the untidy-looking pond on the
right to see the giant carp swimming!
On reaching the road, turn right then right again a few
steps farther on where a SROW Right of Way sign
indicates the route to the Minchmoor Road. Continue up
this road and to the right of some wooden garages, to where
a steep flight of steps rises up, left, through trees to
reach a rough, wider track. Keep on this track until
reaching a gate leading out onto a grassy track through
pastureland and following alongside a wall.
From here on, the route of the
Minchmoor Road is easy to follow as it wends its way
gently uphill to the fingerpost sign passed earlier in
the walk at Grid Ref NT388326. Turn left, westwards,
from here and follow the route back to Traquair.
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WALK FACTS
Distance: 15˝
miles/25km
Map: OS 1:50,000 Landranger Sheet 73 or OS 1:25,000
Explorer Sheet 337
Start/parking: There
is a large car park beside the village hall in
Traquair at Grid Ref NT331345.
The access road is opposite
the War Memorial Cross at the junction of the BB709
and B7062 signposted to the school.
Grading: This
uncomplicated walk is in the rolling hills of the
Scottish Borders countryside and includes sections
of both the Southern Upland Way and the Minchmoor
Road. It is suitable for fit adults and older
children, allowing some 5-6 hours plus time for
stops.
There is very little
shelter from the elements, besides trees, therefore
care must be taken to ensure proper footwear and
protective clothing is worn.
A good summer route but
in winter weather or low cloud, a map and compass,
and the ability to navigate with them effectively
may be required due to the many paths which
intersect the route.
Sheep and cattle graze so
dogs must be kept on a lead. |