The Kingdom Fife has some of the most picturesque towns and villages to be found in Scotland and the East Neuk in particular is steeped in history. Very popular as a holiday resort there is an abundance of quiet secluded spots for relaxation, spectacular sea views, family walks etc. The people are very friendly and inviting and many of the local events and galas held in the area throughout the summer are great tourist attractions.

The ancient Burgh of Crail has always been a magnet for those seeking peace and tranquility. Although very small, Robert the Bruce granted Crail its royal charter in 1310 that gave the people of the town the right to trade on Sundays. The Sunday markets, once among the largest in Europe, were held in the Marketgait where the 17th century Mercat Cross stands.

Of all the towns in the East Neuk, Crail must surely have the most picturesque harbour that features on numerous brochures and calendars and where artists and photographers spend many hours in the old part of the town with its little houses, white walls, crowstepped gables and red pantile roofs. From the wide main street, steep cobble-stoned wynds lead down to the harbour where lobster and crab fishing boats shelter and creels line the pier.

From the car park, walk east away from the 16th century Tollbooth that used to house the old Council Chamber, Courtroom and prison, past the Mercat Cross then left into Denburn Wood - a delightful den with a little burn trickling through it. Look out for the Rude Well – a baptism or scholar’s well - a bottle-shaped, medieval well rediscovered during excavations in 1972 which has a religious link with the Auld Rude of Karail – the pre-Reformation Cross in the Kirk – and with baptisms. In later ages it was associated with the scholars from the grammar school which once stood by the old manse in the Marketgait.

Keep on the path beside the burn then up to the car park by the old cemetery. Turn right here and walk up a short stretch of road past the new cemetery and a barrier onto a rough double wheel-track leading towards the caravan site. Keep left on reaching the first of the caravans. This path goes on through a pleasant mix of cultivated land and livestock pasture up to the garden boundary of Smithfield where it bears sharp left then emerges by the side of the A917 St Andrews – Crail road at Chance Inn.

Cross carefully over onto the B9171 road for Colinsburgh and ahead to the old railway bridge where a Kingdom of Fife Millennium Cycleway sign indicates a ‘circular’ route going off to the right. Follow this up the wide track past Ragfield beside the route of the dismantled railway. This line, which was closed in 1969, once ran from Dundee through Leuchars Junction and St Andrews and on to Edinburgh and served all the towns, villages and farms round the Fife coast.

At grid ref 584109, approximately 400 yards/365 metres past the ruins of Cookston, and before reaching a bridge across the track, a low wall breaks to the right. Follow the narrow footpath to the left-hand side of this wall towards a strip of trees, taking in the spectacular view north eastwards over St Andrews Bay to the Angus coastline and the hills beyond. At the trees the ancient church spire in the village of Kingsbarns comes into view above the rooftops.

At the end of this path is the A917 – previously crossed at Chance Inn – and which has to be crossed first right then left into Back Style - once known as Sea Road – down to the beach car park. There are one or two misleading finger-post signs beside a gate on the right at the end of the road that indicate a walkers route which leads onto the Kingsbarns Links golf course. These should, of course, be avoided. Continue a short way to the car park and turn right at the seaward end of the wall onto the marked Coastal Route and follow the wide sandy path between the beach and the golf course keeping as close to the red ‘water hazard’ marker posts as possible.

The new Fife Coastal Path markers are a little confusing in their numbers at the end of the beach. Turn right into the trees, and cross an elaborate new bridge, left. A short way on from here is an alternative ‘High Tide Route’. It is strongly recommended that walkers follow this as there is no way round a small headland which lies a short distance ahead when the tide is in. If the tide is out, follow the path close to the right hand side of the low wall, which then takes a twist through a gap so it is then on the right.

A signpost indicates a route change along the seashore that directs walkers to another marker beside a wall. Once over the wall continue ahead through an open stretch of field, around the small headland on the foreshore and continue on the narrow track alongside the fence. If in any doubt about negotiating the headland, head up the steep grass bank on the right to the fence line where there is a narrow footpath that can be followed with care.

The path leads alongside another golf course – Balcomie Links – following the white ‘out of bounds’ marker posts past the distinctive, old lifeboat ‘house’ to the site of the former Fife Ness Harbour where an information board describes the construction and history of the beacon light which once stood on the North Carr rock a short distance offshore. The North Carr lightship that once marked the outermost transit point around Fife Ness can now be seen in the docks at Dundee. In a storm in December 1958 the lightship broke its moorings and was in danger of being driven onto the rocks with potential for loss of life of the crew on board. The RNLI lifeboat ‘Mona’ that was stationed at Broughty Ferry near Dundee was launched to go to its assistance but in the dark of night, while heading out over the bar of the River Tay, suffered a fatal capsize with the loss of all her crew. The lightship was eventually saved without loss of life or injury to any of the crew but it never returned to its station.

Follow the path around the headland below the Coastguard Station and lighthouse then through Kilwinning Coast Wildlife Reserve, managed by the Scottish Wildlife Trust, where an information board gives details of the kind of birds that can be seen. An obvious footpath leads along this stretch of the coastline and through the Sauchope Caravan Site. At the end of the road follow the Fife Coastal Path sign up and along the footpath between two fences past a row of recently built houses. Continue from here on the upper footpath then turn right at the first junction into Roome Bay Avenue. This leads out near to the entrance to Denburn Wood. Turn left and walk the short distance along Marketgait back to the start.
 

WALK FACTS

Distance: 10.3 miles/16.5km.

Maps: OS Landranger 1:50,000 Sheet 59 or OS Explorer 1:25,000 Sheet 371

Start/Finish: Grid Ref: NO 613 078 Car park in Marketgait, Crail beside the Mercat Cross and Tolbooth

Grading: This is a circular walk that follows good paths, including the route of a former single track railway, some country roads and foreshore tracks.

The railway line, dating from 1887, and which was closed in 1969, once carried goods and passenger traffic from Dundee through Leuchars Junction to St Andrews and on to Edinburgh and served all the towns, villages and farms along the Fife coast.

Much of the route passes through agricultural land therefore dogs MUST be kept on a lead and under strict control. When walking beside the golf courses, keep close to the marker posts. Do not venture onto any part of the courses and stop to allow the progress of play.

It is good day-walk for any fit, competent walkers. Some less well-maintained tracks through boggy ground should also be expected. The foreshore part of the route, in particular, can be exposed to cold, onshore winds therefore proper protective clothing is required as well as a first aid kit and adequate food and water. A route plan, up-to-date map for the area, a good compass - and the ability to use them to navigate effectively – are also recommended.