Dalwhinnie, Gaelic for ‘meeting
place’ stands at a junction of the former cattle-droving
routes from the west and north that led south to the
markets at Falkirk and Crieff in the Central Lowlands
and is home to the highest distillery in Scotland. It is
an isolated and barren place, located midway between
Perth and Inverness, in a glen with the Monadhliath
Mountains to the west and the Forest of Atholl, the
Cairngorms and the Grampians to the east.
The northern section of the route is on the Ben Alder
Estate. Click here for more information and the southern
section of Camusericht is in part of the much larger
Corrour Estate. Click here for more information.
The walk begins at the railway level crossing a short
distance to the south of Dalwhinnie Station. Negotiate
the crossing with care onto the wide estate road that
leads alongside Loch Ericht for 5 miles/8km to Ben Alder
Lodge. This first section is relatively straightforward
as far as the Lodge from where it heads out onto a hill
road for another 2 miles/3.2km to the boatshed/stable
near to Loch Pattack, a small loch lying to the
southeast of Loch Laggan and northwest of Loch Ericht.
Be sure to be mindful of estate vehicles as well as the
menace of the free-roaming horses that will search out
any food in a rucksack!
With the magnificent bulk of Ben Alder, the Lancet Edge
of Aonach Beag and Geal Charn ahead, follow the broad
grassy track southwest (left) from here over the exposed
moor-land for about 3 miles/4.8km to a point where
another track cuts away sharply right towards a very
shaky suspension footbridge over the Allt a’
Chaoil-réidhe at Grid Ref: 524764. Cross this bridge
carefully - being sure to do so one at a time as the
sign suggests – and continue left to Culra Bothy that
stands a short distance before Culra Lodge.
It is worth noting here that the bothy provides the last
refuge on the route until reaching Ben Alder
Cottage beside Loch Ericht some 8 miles/12.9km away.
A narrow track leads from here alongside the gurgling
waters of the Allt a’ Bhealaich Dhuibh up to and across
the Bealach Dubh, involving an ascent of around 820
feet/250m over a distance of some 3
miles/4.8km.
This is the only ‘serious’ climb on the
route - but not particularly difficult as the statistic
suggests – and perhaps the most spectacular part of the
walk.
There are some narrow stream crossings to negotiate
along the way and, should they be in spate, may present
a minor challenge. At the summit of the bealach, lie
remnants of a WWII Wellington bomber (L7867 JM-J) that
crashed there on 10th December 1942 with the loss of 5
crew. There was one survivor. The aircraft was on a Nav-Ex
from RAF Lossiemouth. Much of the wreckage was
transported away by mules, leaving very little remaining
at the site. At this height, on a clear day, some of the
best views on the walk can be expected - south to
Corrour and Loch Ossian; behind to Dalwhinnie and the
walk in.
This is just over the halfway stage -
13 miles/21km.
The next 4 miles/6.4km of the route begins with a
descent into the valley, on a pleasant gradient, then
bears left and gently up towards the Bealach Cumhann
following a good stalkers’ path. The numerous small
feeder streams along the way should pose no problems. At
the end of this path, beside the shore of Loch Ericht,
stands the reportedly haunted Benalder Cottage.
To the
right of here, cross the stile leading into a small
fenced compound and follow the path that leads over to
another stile to reach the Alder Burn and negotiate the
high step up onto the footbridge – not shown on the OS
Explorer map. Once over the bridge, the ‘fun’ really
begins!
Although not defined on either of the OS maps for the
area, this final part of the walk starts with a wet –
rather boggy – 1½ miles/2.4km section beginning with a
short rise through a small stand of pines and leading
over onto a very faint path marked by wooden stakes
heading back down to the sandy shores of Loch Ericht
then along the outer edge of a high deer fence. This is
followed by a further 1½ miles/2.4km on a gradually
improving track to another footbridge crossing the Cam
Chriochan. The view back from here, up the length of
Loch Ericht, can be spectacular given the right
conditions.
The final section of some 6 miles/9.7km passes through
the Camusericht Estate and requires the careful crossing
of some high, locked gates - principally to exclude
mountain bikers - by a ladder at the side of each. This
is another fine part of the walk on rough, wide roads
across open ground passing Lochan na h-Aon Chraoibh
hidden by the trees on the left and with good views over
to Lochan loin nan Donnlaich and Lochan Sron Smeur.
About 270 yards/250m before the forest, where the road
reaches a high, locked gate with no obvious way of
crossing it, another feint track continues south (ahead)
and narrows down the forest edge to join the wide road
again and out to the finish.
Sincere thanks are due to my friends Archie and Mary
Martin for enduring the vagaries of the Scottish
weather, over a considerable period of time, to
reconnoitre this route and so ensuring a most enjoyable,
if long, day’s walking. |
WALK FACTS
Distance: 25½ miles/41km.
Maps: OS Landranger
1:50,000 Sheet 42 or Explorer 1:25,000 Sheets 385 and
393. Start: Grid
Ref: 633846. Beside the level crossing at the end of the
road beside Dalwhinnie railway station.
Finish: Grid Ref: 506576.
The forest access gate ½ mile/400m north of Rannoch
Lodge, at the western end of Loch Rannoch.
Notes: Ideally, two cars, a helpful driver for
one car, or the local taxi from Kinloch Rannoch are
required to complete this walk. Cars should be parked at
the finish point - ensuring they are kept clear of the
forest access gate.
Grading: This is a long, linear walk that follows
the western shore of Loch Ericht on good estate roads to
begin with and then on more remote hill tracks, but it
is quite feasible for it to be completed in one long day
by any fit and competent walkers. Some less obvious
tracks through very boggy ground should also be
expected.
There is little shelter on the route therefore full
extreme weather clothing should be carried as well as a
first aid kit and adequate food and water. A route plan,
up-to-date maps for the area and a good compass – and
the ability to use them to navigate effectively – are
also essential.
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