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Ben
Cruachan, one of the best known of the Scottish 1,000
metre (3,281 feet) mountains, has a rugged spine of
several peaks running from east to west. It lies to the
north of the picturesque village of Lochawe which, in
Victorian times, was the principal point of embarkation
for visitors to the many luxurious mansions built around
Loch Awe by the rich sporting gentry who spent the
"season" hunting and fishing with their families and
friends.
The near over-bearing atmosphere engendered by the
towering majesty of Ben Cruachan increases as the tapering
western arm of the loch reaches the dark entrance to the
grim ravine of the Pass of Brander where the precipitous
granite screes must surely be witness to more unsuspected
and bloody affrays than any other comparable site in the
whole of the West Highlands.
One kilometre deep within the hollow heart of the mountain
massif is the Cruachan Hydro Electric Power Station, one
of the hidden wonders of the Highlands. It opened in 1965.
At its centre, inside a massive cavern high enough to
house the Tower of London, enormous turbines convert the
power of water into electricity, available to our homes at
the flick of a switch.
The route, taking in the peaks from west to east, begins
from the layby on the side of the busy A85 close to the
decidedly unorthodox St Conan's Kirk, fashioned from
Cruachan granite which was worked, in situ, by its
builders over the 49 years it took to complete. Cross the
road and walk the 2.9mile/4.6km private road westwards and
uphill to the dam of the Cruachan Reservoir at 1,312
feet/400m.
An alternative is to start from opposite the
Scottish Power Visitor Centre, a further 21/2 miles/4km
further west, and follow the steep west bank of the Allt
Cruachan up to the dam. Having reached the dam, continue
along the rough road on the western shore for a further 1
mile/1.7km to its end. A single, rough (and sometimes very
muddy) track leads off left, west-northwest, up to the
Bealach Lochain below Meall Cuanail.
From here it's a
strenuous, but reasonably straightforward, slog northwards
over the granite boulders to reach the, now sadly broken,
cylindrical trig point on the main peak.
The ridge path is quite distinct, if narrow and
precipitous in places, and leads east-northeast over
Drochaid Ghlas to the summit of Stob Diamh. If caught out
by adverse weather conditions, take care not to follow the
path northwards from Drochaid Ghlas as it leads to a
dangerously steep descent away from the ridge. From Stob
Diamh turn south to begin the descent back to the
Reservoir, but bear in mind that the correct path begins
just before reaching the summit cairn. Don't be tempted to
head on over the top then turn south on what looks like
the main path as it descends then bears away
east-northeast again from the descent proper and down into
Coire Creachainn.
A reasonable track leads south over the 3,215 feet/980m
top of Stob Garbh and down to a bealach at 2,362 feet/720m
(GR: NN 096288) from where - initially indistinct at least
until the convex slope decreases somewhat - it continues
down and along above the eastern shore of the reservoir
back to the dam and the access road back to the start. |
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WALK FACTS
Distance 11.75 miles/19km.
Map OS Landranger sheet 50 Glen.
Start/parking Layby on the southeast side of
the A85 close to St Conan's Kirk (GR: NN 114264).
Grading A quite strenuous route over two Munros
on varied terrain. Although some references say there
is no scrambling, it is necessary, on occasion, to
rely on a 'hands-on' approach to progress over some of
the rocks and boulders. Ideal for fit adults and older
children. Full protective weather clothing and
navigational equipment must be carried. Not suitable
for dogs.



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