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CHOOSING BOOTS
For general walking, backpacking or scrambling in Scotland's
mountains, it’s best to have a pair of 3-4 season boots. I like my
boots to be comfortable enough to wear throughout the year yet
sufficiently supportive when kicking steps in snow, and wearing
crampons.
The features I pay particular attention to
when buying boots:
THE ANKLES
High ankle cuffs provide the support I want for negotiating steep,
uneven ground and to protect my ankles from rocks and mud; as well
as keeping my feet dry. Padding around the top of the ankle cuff
improves the comfort.
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THE UPPERS
A 3-4 season boot needs an upper that is stiff enough to ensure that
the straps of a pair of crampons don't cut off circulation to the
toes; yet it also needs to be thin enough to be comfortable when
walking along a valley path in summer. So a compromise has to be
made between walking comfort and crampon comfort. Only you can
decide which is best for you, but if you intend tackling walks in
the snow, then a stiffer upper is essential. Thicker uppers also
keep the feet warmer and drier for longer when tramping across wet
terrain – and there’s no shortage of that in Scotland.
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THE HEELS
Once the heel of a boot distorts, your foot will move about in the
boot and blisters won't be far behind. I prefer a heel that holds my
heel firmly in place and maintains its shape. Test the support that
this provides by pinching the base of the upper at the heel, between
thumb and finger.
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CUSHIONING
For added comfort, boot manufacturers place the cushioning element
of the boot between the footbed and the outer sole. This is usually
made from closed cell EVA (ethyl vinyl acetate), PU (polyurethane)
or a soft rubber mix. Some cushioning is essential in 3-4 season
boots as they tend to be very stiff in the sole and would otherwise
be quite uncomfortable when walking long distances.
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THE MIDSOLE
Boot performance is dictated by the stiffness of the midsole, which
sits between the outer sole and the footbed. Test it by grabbing the
boot by the toe and heel and then trying to bend the toe towards the
heel; or try to twist the toe while holding the heel firmly.
Mountain and winter walkers need a good degree of rigidity to
prevent the boot from distorting when they stand on rocks, kick
steps in the snow or wear crampons. More flexible boots provide
greater comfort when walking on smooth paths.
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THE OUTER SOLE
In wintry conditions a deep set of lugs on the outer sole will bite
into snow. Rocky ground demands a hardwearing sole and for
scrambling, the edges of the sole need to be stiff enough to make
standing on small holds more secure. Once a shallow tread begins to
wear out it’ll soon become almost non-existent.
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THE RAND
This is the rubber bit that protects the join between the sole and
the upper, to enhance the waterproofing and durability. The depth of
the rand tends to be fairly standard on most boots.
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THE TOE BOX
In winter a stiff toe box allows me to kick steps into the snow
without bruising my toes. A stiff toe box is also essential for
rocky walks, for the same reason!
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WATERPROOF
LININGS
Leather isn't totally waterproof, although well-proofed boots will
give good weather protection. Some boots have a waterproof and
breathable lining. These linings are useful if water or melted snow
saturates a boot's upper. However, lined boots don't breathe as well
as unlined ones, they take longer to dry and can be too hot for
summer use.
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THE TONGUE
A well-padded tongue makes the boot more comfortable under the
laces. A bellows design prevents mud and water getting into the boot
via the sides of the tongue.
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CRAMPON AND BOOT COMPATIBILITY
Most 3-4 season boots are in the B1 hill-walking category, which
means they’re suitable for the easiest snow and ice conditions, and
can be used with crampons of C1 category. The choice of crampons
depends on the activity you want them for – and how much you’re
prepared to spend! There will be objectors to this but, for general,
non-technical hillwalking, a set of 9 or 10-point crampons that
don’t have toe and/or heel clip fastenings are perfectly adequate
and will fit most boots, providing they aren’t too flexible.
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THE FOOTBEDS
I may still be a bit old-fashioned, but I still call these
‘insoles’.
The footbed is the part that you stand on inside the boot. They make
the boots more comfortable by providing some cushioning and may also
be designed with air vents to minimise sweat. Better quality
footbeds may also be contoured to support the foot.
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CARING FOR
YOUR BOOTS
Taking care of your boots prolongs their life and makes them more
comfortable to wear.
Once home, after a walk, remove the laces and wash off any mud and
dirt using cold water and a nylon brush. The laces can be washed as
well if they are soiled.
Wash all the outer surfaces, even the bits that don’t look dirty as
small particles of dirt can get into the fibres and damage them,
then wipe off all the excess water with a piece of paper towel.
To help prevent the salt from sweaty feet going through the lining
and into the leather, causing it to dry out and crack, wipe the
inside of your boots with a warm, slightly damp cloth or wash them
out with a forceful flow of cold water then dry them with some paper
towel.
Wet boots will grow mould or rot so it’s essential that they be
dried after use. It is best to leave them to dry out at room
temperature however, if it’s necessary to speed up the drying
process, I stuff newspaper into the toes to soak up any excess
water, removing and replacing it as necessary. Drying boots beside
fires and radiators will dry them too quickly and crack the leather.
I like to condition my boots after every walk to help preserve their
water resistance using a waterproofing product. After proofing I
leave them to dry then wipe off any excess that may remain.
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