CHOOSING JACKETS &
TROUSERS
There is a
mind-boggling range of waterproof jackets and trousers
available these days that it is a bit of a nightmare trying
to decide which to buy!
For the kind of
walking I enjoy, including outings into Scotland's
mountains, I have a lightweight jacket for the summer and a
heavier one for the winter. When it comes to waterproof
trousers I have just one pair. If it rains in the summer –
sorry WHEN it rains in the summer - I sometimes don’t bother
putting on my waterproof trousers unless conditions are very
bad.
However, for less
demanding walks, there is no reason to spend a vast amount
of money so choose a general-purpose jacket and a pair of
over-trousers that combine waterproof and breathable fabrics
with functional yet stylish design.
The features I
pay particular attention to when buying my waterproof
jackets:
THE FABRIC
Most good jacket
manufacturers use waterproof and breathable fabrics, that
keep you dry from the rain as well as from the condensation
created by your body. Higher-priced fabrics are generally
more breathable and lighter in weight, and may also be more
waterproof and more durable. A better degree of durability
is provided in some jackets by using a patchwork pattern of
ripstop threads on the fabric to prevent tears becoming too
long.
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THE SLEEVES
Try a jacket on
and test it by raising your hands above your head - just as
you would do when reaching for a handhold when scrambling. I
would be disinclined to buy a jacket that ‘rides up’ at the
hem and cuffs under these conditions.
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THE HOOD
I prefer a fixed
hood (one that is permanently out and attached) as it tends
to perform better in foul weather on the hills, as there is
nothing flapping about in my face. They are generally shaped
to provide better protection. Rollaway hoods (ones that roll
into the collar) and detachable hoods (attached with press
studs or a zip) are still perfectly capable of providing
protection in foul weather. For the best protection I always
go for wired or stiffened peak that won't bend or lose its
shape after being pulled from a rucksack or when used in the
wind and rain. Volume adjustment helps improve fit, but the
draw cords should be securely tethered to prevent them from
slapping you in so the face on a windy hill. Hoods with a
wraparound design and high faceguards provide excellent
protection when ‘battened down’, but tend to flap in the
wind when worn unfastened, so they are not everyone’s
favourite for windy hill walks.
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THE ZIP
Double zips that
open top and bottom are often fitted to allow easy access
and ventilation control. To prevent 'zip scratch', I look
for a chin guard at the top of the zip. Interactive zips are
sometimes fitted inside the jacket to allow a compatible
fleece to be zipped inside. This may be useful on the
street, but I don’t find it so useful on the hill when I
need a flexible layering system that allows me to peel off
individual layers quickly to control my body temperature.
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DRAWCORDS
Draw cords around
the hem and at the waist help to keep draughts at bay and
trap warm air inside the jacket. Self-tailed and hidden draw
cords won't snag as you pass through or over gates, fences,
etc. When walking out on the hill, a flapping draw cord on a
hood can prove painful should it strike your face on a windy
day.
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ZIPS AND STORM FLAPS
I look for a
jacket that has a zip with a double layer of fabric (a
double storm flap) fitted, as they tend to be the most
waterproof by design. Some lighter, more basic jackets may
only have a single layer of fabric covering the zip (a
single storm flap). ‘Velcro’ fastenings offers a good seal
but can get easily blocked with snow and freeze, so I try
and get press-stud fastenings. Zips described as
'water-resistant' are not waterproof, and they become less
water-resistant when the teeth get pulled apart or flexed
into a convex profile, as can happen when you place gloves
in a pocket. To ensure that a water-resistant zip performs
at its best, storm flaps are still required. But without
storm flaps, a jacket will be lighter and less bulky, while
the pocket zips will be easier to use. Water-resistant zips
can sometimes be harder to operate than standard zips.
When trying on a
potential purchase of a new jacket, ask the salesperson for
a pair of thick mitts and make sure that you can operate the
toggle pulls easily when wearing them.
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UNDERARM ZIPS
For the first
time in all my years of walking, my current winter jacket
has underarm zips or 'pitzips', that extend from the elbow
to the waist and I’ve found that they really do provide
good, added ventilation without having to open or remove my
jacket. The zips have ‘Velcro’ storm flaps over them to keep
out rain and snow. Water-resistant zips without storm flaps
would, admittedly, be less bulky and perhaps easier to use
but … there’s always the chance!
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POCKETS
I prefer not to
walk with my hands in my pockets when out on the hill but
there’s no denying that they are great for temporary storage
of bits and pieces! They should, preferably, have downward
angled, rear facing storm flaps over the zips. I should add
here that my winter gloves are securely tethered by a
continuous length of cord that goes from one to the other,
passing up one sleeve and down the other … just like my mum
secured my mitts when I was a toddler! IF I take them off
for any reason – and I know from the winter hill skills
courses I’ve been on that I should be able to do EVERYTHING
with them on - I know that they won’t disappear,
irretrievably, in a howling gale!
Every walker's
jacket should have a map-sized pocket. The best place for
this is behind the central storm flap but outside the main
zip, as this allows easy access to the map without the need
to open the main zip (and, potentially, getting wet). Chest
pockets are useful for maps, gloves and guidebooks,
especially as some hip pockets become inaccessible when
wearing a rucksack, waist or hip belt. Mesh pockets improve
the breathability of a jacket but they can allow water pass
to the inside of the jacket.
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CUFFS
Adjustable cuffs
with ‘Velcro’ fastenings combined with elastication, will
ensure a close, comfortable fit. Remember that the cuff has
to go OVER your gloves or mitts in winter.
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TROUSERS
There will always
be the argument of salopettes versus over-trousers, but I
have had a pair of lightweight mountain over-trousers for
many years and, with a bit of care, they have served me
well. Made from extremely water resistant and breathable 3
layer Gore-Tex material, they are simply designed but
hardwearing and are ideally suited to mountain conditions.
When buying
waterproof over-trousers, make sure that they have (at
least) knee length side zips with an internal gusset and
that they go on easily over your boots. There is nothing
worse than trying to put over-trousers on in wind and rain
if you have to take your boots off to do it!
I particularly
like the easily adjusted, elasticated waist with the draw
cord and the Velcro adjustment flaps at the ankles that
ensure a good seal. They were a little bit expensive, yes,
but they have been worth every penny.
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CARING FOR YOUR WATERPROOF JACKET AND TROUSERS
Waterproofs often
have a durable water-repellent finish applied to the outer
fabric - so water droplets appear to ‘bead’ on the surface
without soaking into the fabric - that can be refreshed by
re-proofing. I prefer to use the products in the Nik-Wax
range.
Taking care of
your waterproof jacket and trousers prolongs their life and
makes them more comfortable to wear.
Always follow the
manufacturers instructions on the item’s care label.
Wash them fairly
regularly with a non-detergent soap that cleans effectively
but will not affect their waterproof qualities.
DO NOT use normal
household detergent washing powders or tablets, or fabric
softeners, as these can have a serious adverse effect on the
water repelling properties of the material.
Before washing,
fasten all the Velcro and zips just to make sure that they
don’t snag on the waterproof outer layer.
Some materials
can be tumble dried or even ironed at a cool setting to
enhance the re-proofing.
